Yesterday I continued stripping the roof using the sanders and one of those spongy-looking paint strippers/rust removers with my drill. With this ool I was able to strip at a lot faster rate and the bare metal look a lot smoother than with the DA sanders with 50-grit pads. If I continue today at yesterdays rate, I should be able to complete the entire roof today. However, I realized that it would take me a long time to do the entire car, so I've decided to chemical-strip the rest of the paint. My car's paint is a high quality, very well laid out 2-stage coat, which is being pretty hard to remove. If It didn't have so many nicks and scratches, and the clearcoat wasn't "cracked" (shrunk?) I would have left it alone. Plus, I really wanted to clean up, remove or neutralize all of that rust underneath.
One big question that I have is: Do I need to cover the entire sheetmetal with body filler? or if the metal is good and straight, can I just coat it with 3 coats of high-build primer, guidecoat it and sand down? Much of my metal is in excellent shape. I just don't see why I'd have to apply filler on it, unless it is needed to correct misalignments, straighten body lines, or such... I've seen a video on You tube where the tech takes a perfectly new E-Coated door and (while removed) covers it with bondo and then block sands it. I failed to see the point in doing that if the door is removed, now, if he had had it installed and the bodylines and shutlines assessed, and found to be deficient, then I would understand partial bodyfilling...
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I finally set-up my new Jobsmart 125 welder for use. I'll be using Hobart 0.035 fluxcore wire. Instructions are very easy to follow. It has 2 current settings; 80 (low) and 125 (high) Amps, to use depending mainly on your metal thickness. I noticed that some of the parts on the wire feed mechanism are not of the best quality. More like weak plastic that won't take a beating. So I'll have to be careful when handling it. I made a couple of newbie mistakes; I let loose the wire on the spool and it unwound itself all over the place. It was a bitch to wind up again, trying to keep it from kinking. I tried to manually feed the wire through the conduit past the gear wheel, when all I had to do was to turn on the unit and press the trigger!...
Today I'll find some scrap metal and begin practicing my welding and welder setups...
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I finally set-up my new Jobsmart 125 welder for use. I'll be using Hobart 0.035 fluxcore wire. Instructions are very easy to follow. It has 2 current settings; 80 (low) and 125 (high) Amps, to use depending mainly on your metal thickness. I noticed that some of the parts on the wire feed mechanism are not of the best quality. More like weak plastic that won't take a beating. So I'll have to be careful when handling it. I made a couple of newbie mistakes; I let loose the wire on the spool and it unwound itself all over the place. It was a bitch to wind up again, trying to keep it from kinking. I tried to manually feed the wire through the conduit past the gear wheel, when all I had to do was to turn on the unit and press the trigger!...
Today I'll find some scrap metal and begin practicing my welding and welder setups...
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