Monday, July 2, 2012

Planning for Bodywork & Paint

I am weeks away from the moment we begin body-filling and sanding. But I think its time to begin planning and establishing how I am going to do it. I've read a few articles on how to prep and paint, and watched many videos (thanks You Tube!) and I have found many of the procedures are interchanged, some techs use this sandpaper grit while others use that, some techs apply 3 coats, others do 5, etc... so until someone steers me in the right direction for the perfect procedure for my car (based in my budget, skill level and tools available), I'll do it as follows:

BODY-FILLER AND BLOCK SANDING:
1-Sand down to bare metal with 40-grit. Correct all dents as they are exposed. Some of them might be small enough that applying filller will suffice.
------wash clean with soapy water, W/G remover or film remover, let dry thoroughly.
2-Apply filler, wait until hard and dry (about 30 minutes, but follow product label).
3-Prior to block sanding, apply masking tape over body panel creases to preserve the edges
4-Block-sand with 40-grit.
5-When you have a rough approximation of final shape, then block sand with 80-grit.
6-Block sand with 120-grit and then with 320-grit to remove scratches for a final surface ready for high-build primer
7-Evaluate sanded filler. Use a straight edge. Re-apply filler and block-sand as needed.
8-Glaze-putty where necessary to cover pinholes and sand with 180-grit in those areas.
Note: If H-B Epoxy primer will be sprayed on bare metal, make sure the surface of the metal has at least 180-grit or coarser cross-scratch pattern. This is for proper adhesion.

PRIMING AND SANDING
1-Wipe-on wipe-off with wax/grease Remover. Let dry +/- 30 mins
2-Apply 1st coat of High-Build Primer
3-Block-sand with 220-grit until primed surface is smooth
4-Apply Guide Coat
5-Block-sand with 220-grit
6-Block-wet sand with 400-grit to remove the 220-grit lines

  • for catching all high and low spots
  • keep blocking surfaces clean with pressured air
  • use masking tape to guide your panel creases to keep them straight
8-After all black coat disappears, apply 2 more coats of primer
9-Wet-sand with 320-grit, then 400, then 600 grit (600 because it will be a metallic color). Never smaller than 600!
10-Apply Sealer (to insure complete coverage and that no metal is left bare anywhere). Do not sand.
By now, the surface should be ready for basecoating.

APPLY BASECOAT (Urethane Basecoat)
10-Prepare basecoat:

  • mix...
11-Tack, tack, tack!
12- Apply 1st, 2nd and 3rd coats of Basecoat.
13 Apply 1st, 2nd & 3rd coat of Clearcoat. Allow enough time for the clearcoat to cure
14-Wet-sand (color sand) with 1,000 (Stage 1), then 1,200 (Stage 2), then 2000 grit (Stage 3). If you get a lot of orange peel, consider using 600-grit for Stage 1.  Use a block only on flat surfaces and a rubber pad for curved surfaces

So those will be my general steps to follow. I know there is a lot of  "in betweens", but the generals procedures are outlined. If anyone feels I am not doing it correctly, please feel free to let me know, I will greatly appreciate it. 

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