tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84656994234284370992024-03-04T21:38:27.536-08:00'67 Mustang Renovation ProjectA DIY project to renovate El Chato, my 1967 Mustang HardtopIvan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-36999522325939932732013-11-10T09:28:00.001-08:002017-11-22T07:45:17.404-08:00Rocker Panel Molding Install<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">I searched all over the net for
a systematic procedure to install a '67-'68 Mustang rocker panel molding but as
usually happens, I did not find one that answered all my questions and specific
issues. But in the end my efforts were good and after minor complications, I
was able to install my car's original factory accessory rocker panels. Modern
reproduction panels are about $35.00 each, but the quality is very
questionable, so I considered myself very lucky to have the originals in such
great condition that all they needed was a 0000-steel wool rub to bring out the
shine. The Dynacorn-brand molding clip set is about $15.00 is of excellent
quality, and brings all necessary clips for both sides and rivets.They fit perfectly (for a change!)</span><br />
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I had to use extra rivets
from my kit since I snapped a few of these broken during the install.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Some folks initially
think that the small tab on top of the clip is where the molding snaps into.
This tab is to keep the molding from rubbing against the paint, and eventually
scratching it. The molding snaps on each of the four lips of each corner of the clip.
The problem is that sometimes you have to massage the molding to make it snap
tight against the clips.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ihalOt4N-SU/Un-8dDbH2gI/AAAAAAAAjHY/qDOArEsObO0/s1600/IMAG1684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ihalOt4N-SU/Un-8dDbH2gI/AAAAAAAAjHY/qDOArEsObO0/s200/IMAG1684.jpg" width="113" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkeINFwZgfJTI5jTYxjsYWRQXR7Xp48T8VGsxLmdS0ideOUJKpIQDbU3xyBe8WIvZNBnKBgg7OmEfi6TUmKb_mm2o9vJ-05FhHqMT4RWyj23Vrdu_Ovq3ZQGouU9cHcH1MfnDyHUQbCo/s1600/Corner+lips+for+fastening.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkeINFwZgfJTI5jTYxjsYWRQXR7Xp48T8VGsxLmdS0ideOUJKpIQDbU3xyBe8WIvZNBnKBgg7OmEfi6TUmKb_mm2o9vJ-05FhHqMT4RWyj23Vrdu_Ovq3ZQGouU9cHcH1MfnDyHUQbCo/s200/Corner+lips+for+fastening.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
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The front bracket holes
in the right fender were covered with body filler, a minor complication. So
I accessed the holes from the inside of
the fender. Once I located the original holes I took a smaller diameter drill
bit and with my hand's index and thumb, began "drilling" through the filler from the inside out. Once the
panel was drilled through, I completed the hole with the right diameter.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Use the metal bracket and screw (included) to attach this clip to the fender</div>
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Then I followed through
with the remaining smaller holes (5 in total) for the brackets on the fender.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Place the molding against
the bottom side of the clips as shown, and then snap together the top side.
Once all clips were fastened, the molding was test-fitted. Most of the clips
snapped ok, except for a couple, so I had to remove the molding back out and
<u>carefully and evenly </u>pull the sides close a bit at a time to make everything snap together tight.<o:p></o:p></div>
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grab it like this and compress...</div>
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And try again until all clips snap tight</div>
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It took me about 1 hour
of planning and rehearsing the steps, and about 2 hours to do both sides. The final product should look flush without any bends (where you compressed), and should feel tight.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-54873967229925754682013-11-03T08:05:00.000-08:002013-11-03T15:49:57.864-08:00Installing Rear Applique Panels<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Even though I prefer the 67-68's look with chrome bezels around the tail lights, the rear appliques are a rather rare option for 67 Mustangs. So I felt it'd be a good thing to leave them as one of my car's unique features. These are also hard to find in original, pot metal. As reproductions (in cast aluminum), they can be quite expensive at about $280.0-$300.0.<br />
I always liked these panels painted in gloss silver or charcoal gray, so this was my chance to finally get these painted the way I like them. STN Auto Restorations had them media blasted to remove at least 2 older coats of paint. When the car was painted in the mid 1990's the previous painter did not remove the appliques and just painted them in place. This was all corrected when STN painted the car this year. After blasting, the panels were painted gloss metallic silver. I think they look really nice.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"> The original look before repainting:</span></div>
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New tail light lenses were also installed:</div>
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After positioning the panel, I attached the lower threaded studs to the panel's lower posts</div>
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Then I screwed in the three top studs and fastened the nuts</div>
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The shiny glossy silver appliques, along with the chrome trim and the pop-open gas cap give my coupe a distinguished look. Once I get that trunk lid straightened out and the emblems installed, it's going to look awesome.</div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-16077684634369143942013-10-15T15:07:00.003-07:002013-10-16T12:45:35.462-07:00Assembling the Doors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I knew the doors would give me a hard time, especially when these were disassembled at the paint shop and all parts placed in a box for me to worry about! So I kept postponing this work until I felt it was the right time.<br />
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The vent
window assembly was out and remained out until after the regulator and
window assemblies were installed. You'll need the extra room to maneuver for these. Also,
I made sure the fresh paint along the
belt line (where the felt strips go) is protected with "spongy" tape or something similar. </div>
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The door glass, the frame, and glass run hinge were all assembled
together as one assembly, but they were full of grime, caked grease and some rust, and so was the regulator, contributing to the sluggish feel of the crank mechanism. So I thoroughly cleaned and re-greased them:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Before installing any of the
components below, we installed the brand-new door handles. This allows the most access
and space for work.</div>
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Alanis' little hands and forearms came in handy. While I was cleaning and greasing the regulator components, she had those door handles and door locks installed in no time! </div>
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After that, we began the rest of the installation:</div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->1.<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Inserted and attached the vertical track (door window guide) but did not
tighten, and prepared to detach it in step 6. I did this to have a good idea of where the window frame rollers needed to be positioned.<o:p></o:p></div>
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2. Slid the regulator assembly
through the door side, gear first. Find the crank hole and guided the four (4)
regulator attachment nuts to their respective holes in the door's inner skin. Loosely
attach all 4 nuts.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-85KNSjo7SUM/Ul2PSuJLgdI/AAAAAAAAg60/vDtQr5VuD3o/s1600/IMAG0096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-85KNSjo7SUM/Ul2PSuJLgdI/AAAAAAAAg60/vDtQr5VuD3o/s200/IMAG0096.jpg" width="200" /></a><b style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN">1967-68 Regulator and vertical track assy.</span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
3. Cranked the regulator to the
point where I could slide the rear roller of the regulator into the front end
(vent window side) of the door glass track.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
4. Slid the window into the door
channel at about at an angle, enough to get the rear wheel of the regulator
into the glass track. Then slid the glass forward until I could slide the
front roller (the one towards front end of car) of the regulator into the track.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
5. Crank the window up or down
until the lower roller can be inserted into the short track guide (this is attached with 2 bolts to the
inner door skin). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
6. Now I detached the vertical track
assembly (door window guide, Step 2) and manually positioned the vertical track so as to be able to insert the rear window roller into the vertical channel of the vertical track
assembly. Raised the vertical track assy.
and bolted down, this time permanently.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
7. Rolled the window down and and
then tighten all bolts. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
8. Inserted the vent window
assembly:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
1.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uUtnGLs0vx8/Ul2Wf3jKCcI/AAAAAAAAg7o/0nLmx1a16xw/s1600/IMAG0116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uUtnGLs0vx8/Ul2Wf3jKCcI/AAAAAAAAg7o/0nLmx1a16xw/s200/IMAG0116.jpg" width="113" /></a>2.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJbKcuKUbI8_yr23qolcwEm9Wf-XN2_WhVOKGj8DJ7pLecIo8lJJWrpa2Ls32Z0LxGJyGRKl9S2-88EeCZfU11rRSrYXFHMjcc33HEVzazd1sCCehblAZ00BmHtolLJ_Ad7mYtvXJRIA/s1600/IMAG0117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJbKcuKUbI8_yr23qolcwEm9Wf-XN2_WhVOKGj8DJ7pLecIo8lJJWrpa2Ls32Z0LxGJyGRKl9S2-88EeCZfU11rRSrYXFHMjcc33HEVzazd1sCCehblAZ00BmHtolLJ_Ad7mYtvXJRIA/s200/IMAG0117.jpg" width="113" /></a> 3.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J1hvgAV2pYU/Ul2WjquGB0I/AAAAAAAAg78/lRTBndTsLlk/s1600/IMAG0120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J1hvgAV2pYU/Ul2WjquGB0I/AAAAAAAAg78/lRTBndTsLlk/s200/IMAG0120.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6-RQgTjoFY/Ul2WfW6p-QI/AAAAAAAAg7k/cFn_uz5DDfk/s1600/IMAG0110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w6-RQgTjoFY/Ul2WfW6p-QI/AAAAAAAAg7k/cFn_uz5DDfk/s200/IMAG0110.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<ul>
<li>Lowered the window assy. down
while aligning/inserting the window glass into the vertical channel (the door run channel with the felt strip) of the vent window
frame. </li>
<li>Stop lowering until the rear channel (of the vent frame) threaded slot is in line with
the door skin access hole. From that access hole, screw in the specialty bolt/washer (washer on the felt
channel slot side, not against the door skin).</li>
<li>I had to align the attachment of the upper stop slot (in the window frame), with an access hole in the inner door skin, to attach the upper stop bracket (in my case, it was not installed):</li>
</ul>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KhM_YoDSqZk/Ul2euFfyKlI/AAAAAAAAg8M/kx7CEwyJK0Y/s1600/IMAG0200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KhM_YoDSqZk/Ul2euFfyKlI/AAAAAAAAg8M/kx7CEwyJK0Y/s200/IMAG0200.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>Lowered the vent window frame all
the way down and aligned all four bolt attachments. Then I attached all
bolts loosely and adjusted for alignment.</li>
</ul>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
9. Installed the door beltline weatherstrip (felt strips) at both sides of the door's window channel.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
10. Installed the window glass
lower bumper at the slot in the bottom-center of the door. You must do this
step AFTER you install the felt weatherstrip (step 9), because you have to roll the window below the belt line, to have the room
to install the weatherstrip:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-17zkz8idNNY/Ul2S6GeIeZI/AAAAAAAAg7A/_r_nNd3kZvw/s1600/IMAG0332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-17zkz8idNNY/Ul2S6GeIeZI/AAAAAAAAg7A/_r_nNd3kZvw/s320/IMAG0332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
11. Installed the rubber door
bumpers and the screw-in window brackets (black rubber) on the door jamb areas.
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Both driver and passenger sides are pretty much the
same process, but for a few small variations I noticed rather quickly. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
The windows have to be aligned for proper window movement,
not only with the vent window frame, but also with the vertical track, and quarter window. I
achieved this by adjusting three different bolts, two from the window assy. (4) and one
from the vent window frame (5, 6):<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
4. <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jceh1GysoWU/Ul2TfC4RndI/AAAAAAAAg7I/dEJh5vJX_Dw/s1600/IMAG0230.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jceh1GysoWU/Ul2TfC4RndI/AAAAAAAAg7I/dEJh5vJX_Dw/s200/IMAG0230.jpg" width="113" /></a> 5. <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K3JBTrRcE4s/Ul2jE9lTM3I/AAAAAAAAg8Y/XzIJI0ttYVQ/s1600/IMAG0231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K3JBTrRcE4s/Ul2jE9lTM3I/AAAAAAAAg8Y/XzIJI0ttYVQ/s200/IMAG0231.jpg" width="113" /></a> 6.<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jB5n9H6uL2c/Ul2UB88I7rI/AAAAAAAAg7U/vMba1sJY8Hw/s1600/IMAG0119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jB5n9H6uL2c/Ul2UB88I7rI/AAAAAAAAg7U/vMba1sJY8Hw/s200/IMAG0119.jpg" width="113" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">When finished, we had a tight and fully functional assembly, with new rubber weatherstrip, and all rollers and tracks cleaned and re-greased. Everything felt brand new!</span></div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rQy-dunXndQ/Ul2k-1yOyII/AAAAAAAAg8k/hJxQNKimRNg/s1600/IMAG0100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rQy-dunXndQ/Ul2k-1yOyII/AAAAAAAAg8k/hJxQNKimRNg/s320/IMAG0100.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
A few caveats: Granted, some steps are interchangeable, and every situation is different, but the general procedure is as described. I need to cover the <u>door latch-to-handle rod</u> with something similar to the canvas fabric that originally covered it. As it is right now, it is touching the door skin metal, which might cause noise later. I decided not to apply any sound-deadening materials on the inner side of the outer skin. Maybe I'll regret this later, but right now, I just want to get the car finished. The door panel, wiring ($37.00 new e/a), speakers (4"x8") and door light, will be installed next. </div>
</div>
Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-19991820492332856012013-09-27T23:24:00.002-07:002013-09-30T17:19:49.861-07:00The Front End<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
(Front-End Assembly of a 1967 Ford Mustang)<br />
<br />
What I thought would take half a day turned out a two day ordeal for me. The splash guards inside the fenders were not installed as the car came from the paint shop, causing me to have to remove the fenders again. It raised the stress levels, knowing that anything could damage the new paint. But it all turned out OK. It's always good to have the internet for tips from Mustang enthusiasts. The Average Joe Restoration site showed me how to assemble the headlight bowl/buckets. Several times I had to do, undo and redo. But I learned a lot and I'm happy to say that I did it all myself....well, my daughter helped a lot too. She even pointed out that I was bolting the valance the wrong way (with the tabs outside). Sometimes you need to stop, step away, take a break, get some perspective, swallow your pride...<br />
<br />
First I reviewed the steps one by one and made sure I knew where everything was attached to, and that I had all hardware needed. All original parts to be reused, I thoroughly cleaned, stripped (where necessary) and repainted. All screws and bolts were new. There was to be no grimy rusty hardware in my new front end.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vq2GAgZNEAM/UkZE24ZYTuI/AAAAAAAAfao/gePAGYeii48/s1600/IMAG1704%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vq2GAgZNEAM/UkZE24ZYTuI/AAAAAAAAfao/gePAGYeii48/s320/IMAG1704%5B1%5D.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
These tasks delayed my project a whole day. I had to refinish them before reinstallation and it was a tough job, but they turned out nice. I could have bought all these of course, but I decided I could refinish them, add rust protection, original colors, new hardware, and save some money:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_SSpzfRJoVY/UkZG8WOxENI/AAAAAAAAfa0/kCJLQOvemfc/s1600/IMAG1677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_SSpzfRJoVY/UkZG8WOxENI/AAAAAAAAfa0/kCJLQOvemfc/s200/IMAG1677.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fMeDiSeHUgk/UkZHaIB0onI/AAAAAAAAfbA/i2Xgjb9MOxg/s1600/IMAG1705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fMeDiSeHUgk/UkZHaIB0onI/AAAAAAAAfbA/i2Xgjb9MOxg/s200/IMAG1705.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bOpu2Z_Iu_s/UkZHZ4eDEJI/AAAAAAAAfa8/nTp41E8xSaE/s1600/IMAG1707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bOpu2Z_Iu_s/UkZHZ4eDEJI/AAAAAAAAfa8/nTp41E8xSaE/s320/IMAG1707.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Yes, I went through the trouble of removing the rubber flaps, refinishing the metal and reattaching the flaps with new clips.<br />
<br />
I assembled the valance (parking lights, bezels and self-retaining nuts):<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEViDM8qRrI/UkZIzM-VcLI/AAAAAAAAfbQ/m3fSclDhv7s/s1600/IMAG1709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEViDM8qRrI/UkZIzM-VcLI/AAAAAAAAfbQ/m3fSclDhv7s/s320/IMAG1709.jpg" width="181" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLgaGNoRT97FsUns4fl4Af9OenF491coWufi3OareDs9i2bneyDkBvmsjbsZNcIqiKXq_mfXGK_gHyXZzJmizg-otAmTG58fU9G8byHxER5spRkk0rlQPlFeOcND3zqG9tnNFb89LnJw/s1600/IMAG1708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLgaGNoRT97FsUns4fl4Af9OenF491coWufi3OareDs9i2bneyDkBvmsjbsZNcIqiKXq_mfXGK_gHyXZzJmizg-otAmTG58fU9G8byHxER5spRkk0rlQPlFeOcND3zqG9tnNFb89LnJw/s320/IMAG1708.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
Then I assembled the headlight buckets. A rather simple job, once I knew how to do it:<br />
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<br /></div>
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After carefully disassembling the fenders to keep the fresh paint from scratching, installing the headlight bucket assy., I re-installed the fenders. Then I installed the brand new repop stone guard using 3 special square-headed bolts:</div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y4KCkabNBiE/UkZgeMfsMQI/AAAAAAAAfbg/TJLyJdTlri0/s1600/IMAG0007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y4KCkabNBiE/UkZgeMfsMQI/AAAAAAAAfbg/TJLyJdTlri0/s320/IMAG0007.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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The four (two inner and two outer) bumper brackets were installed. These were left loose until the bumper was fitted.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVpGn1AvoMLO3U-rtkCbyPFxW9wYiNGjSyVIBN8x1h6cbmVSn0v_pbkkfucGp0kKWkV9f1yVtR0qzOF_wrBx4rWJfEBz7DW5UffQLJVwPWjsGCfWnHIyziZZJ4BJksv-6Lh_Lj4VWtRI/s1600/IMAG0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVpGn1AvoMLO3U-rtkCbyPFxW9wYiNGjSyVIBN8x1h6cbmVSn0v_pbkkfucGp0kKWkV9f1yVtR0qzOF_wrBx4rWJfEBz7DW5UffQLJVwPWjsGCfWnHIyziZZJ4BJksv-6Lh_Lj4VWtRI/s320/IMAG0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Then I installed the wide grille moldings. These are the original pieces that I recoated with argent gray for a fresh look. It took 3 screws in the front (per half), and three in rear tabs (engine side):</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ymyw-i4vrdY/UkZjTXua29I/AAAAAAAAfbw/2NHrD8ML_W0/s1600/IMAG0014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ymyw-i4vrdY/UkZjTXua29I/AAAAAAAAfbw/2NHrD8ML_W0/s320/IMAG0014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Next step was the thin grille moldings. These use 3 of the special "fishhook" type molding clips which come with their own nuts:</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XBYYLyI4un4/UkZkq1h-aNI/AAAAAAAAfcQ/XtlpBMY0BGo/s1600/IMAG0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XBYYLyI4un4/UkZkq1h-aNI/AAAAAAAAfcQ/XtlpBMY0BGo/s200/IMAG0023.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8BM4BnpatAk/UkZkm0SJyNI/AAAAAAAAfb8/qcYXDOQhHMs/s1600/IMAG0020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8BM4BnpatAk/UkZkm0SJyNI/AAAAAAAAfb8/qcYXDOQhHMs/s200/IMAG0020.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3E0HXezSNaID0rw49LHElw7zjlEK_20qIVBWiAqrJVdFw1-wvV9uXKAo6JDbz3nVHGjXaHzDgTFhK9u-ZtOw7Dae9RPIihcwHBKHn5aImS-2udhEi1Ym8p3BOd6zMiHk-yW1SAf0f-M/s1600/IMAG0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3E0HXezSNaID0rw49LHElw7zjlEK_20qIVBWiAqrJVdFw1-wvV9uXKAo6JDbz3nVHGjXaHzDgTFhK9u-ZtOw7Dae9RPIihcwHBKHn5aImS-2udhEi1Ym8p3BOd6zMiHk-yW1SAf0f-M/s200/IMAG0024.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lth4ESoWYv4/UkZk1DBiLDI/AAAAAAAAfcw/GCvuzph43EA/s1600/IMAG0025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lth4ESoWYv4/UkZk1DBiLDI/AAAAAAAAfcw/GCvuzph43EA/s200/IMAG0025.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
<br />
Fit was rather good. I did not experience many poor-fitment issues. Everything seemed to sort of fall into place...mostly.<br />
<br />
After the thin grille molding, the grille joint cover was installed (A), then the grille (B, C)<br />
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A<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kc9xzHOpnrk/UkZkrin39QI/AAAAAAAAfcU/Ya84maANAlc/s1600/IMAG0028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kc9xzHOpnrk/UkZkrin39QI/AAAAAAAAfcU/Ya84maANAlc/s200/IMAG0028.jpg" width="113" /></a> B.<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c5DOvXulnHg/UkZkwbsuHyI/AAAAAAAAfcg/I-BG6kABZhw/s1600/IMAG0031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c5DOvXulnHg/UkZkwbsuHyI/AAAAAAAAfcg/I-BG6kABZhw/s200/IMAG0031.jpg" width="113" /></a> C. <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_HpriiWhNVE/UkZvpjIZAVI/AAAAAAAAfeM/oMmgn9YpaxE/s1600/IMAG0037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_HpriiWhNVE/UkZvpjIZAVI/AAAAAAAAfeM/oMmgn9YpaxE/s200/IMAG0037.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
<br />
After that, I reconnected all wire plugs for the headlights and tested them:<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OgBCtumLmQw/UkZk2-HYJFI/AAAAAAAAfc8/fj_SjWQpFow/s1600/IMAG0033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OgBCtumLmQw/UkZk2-HYJFI/AAAAAAAAfc8/fj_SjWQpFow/s200/IMAG0033.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0eKHxU3MfuU/UkZk2v_CYdI/AAAAAAAAfc4/ZqwKAJnDwNE/s1600/IMAG0035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0eKHxU3MfuU/UkZk2v_CYdI/AAAAAAAAfc4/ZqwKAJnDwNE/s200/IMAG0035.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
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After installing the horse/corral and grille bars ("blades"), everything was ready for the installation of the valance, but before that, I decided to test-fit the bumper to see if the gaps between stone guard, the grille moldings and bumper were good. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZU4ccq0FShc/UkZoTcuMRDI/AAAAAAAAfdY/VtLER06eh2w/s1600/IMAG0041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZU4ccq0FShc/UkZoTcuMRDI/AAAAAAAAfdY/VtLER06eh2w/s320/IMAG0041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The bumper requires 4 chrome round-head bolted to the inner and outer bumper brackets. Then two fender bolts at each brackets in each end of the bumper, these are bolted to the fender (from the inside) to a self-retaining nut in the bumper bracket:<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1htlBdZzVfY/UkZoShC3T5I/AAAAAAAAfdU/GHmI_e4jJZc/s1600/IMAG0043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1htlBdZzVfY/UkZoShC3T5I/AAAAAAAAfdU/GHmI_e4jJZc/s200/IMAG0043.jpg" width="113" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZRMfDUGSK8/UkZoXT9TXkI/AAAAAAAAfdo/4LVX6Y2HvcA/s1600/IMAG0044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RZRMfDUGSK8/UkZoXT9TXkI/AAAAAAAAfdo/4LVX6Y2HvcA/s200/IMAG0044.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
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Once all that was done, I installed the valance and checked fit. Then I did the following steps to check fitment again and again until everything was right (every case is different):<br />
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Removed the bumper back out<br />
Bolted the two upper bolts of the valance onto the car frame,<br />
Reinstalled the bumper (loose),<br />
Connected the parking light plugs,<br />
Tested operation of the parking lights,<br />
Completed the assembly of the valance (lower and side bolts),<br />
Tightened all bumper bolts<br />
Tightened all valance bolts<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fqAU9jxvVaI/UkZoW-S3kuI/AAAAAAAAfdk/Og20WcU2u3Y/s1600/IMAG0045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fqAU9jxvVaI/UkZoW-S3kuI/AAAAAAAAfdk/Og20WcU2u3Y/s320/IMAG0045.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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OK, maybe there was an easier way to do it, but that's is how I did it, based on the particular fit of all my parts. Both the Stone guard and the valance are aftermarket sheetmetal and I had to do some pushing and bending. </div>
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The hood trim followed. This is a brand new piece to replace the old faded one:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vjOx1bwCEps/Ukg9E8lt8yI/AAAAAAAAfnU/5rDWb09mKDM/s1600/IMAG0048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vjOx1bwCEps/Ukg9E8lt8yI/AAAAAAAAfnU/5rDWb09mKDM/s320/IMAG0048.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"> Finally, Alanis installed the bumper guards and, after the lights were adjusted, the door light rings: </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxlU8Mn-9XxhgLmRb2exTZAmRqUXpnG1cKi9MFVDEoCPLsFYfv9OtRSzrMxOfTCIUFVho989v4qcSAVPYH01w4hzzTEXB3d81vgIY7jTbJWCmSYIk8kJX3oQuVuNqd6g_zzEW5OIur7E/s1600/IMAG0067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxlU8Mn-9XxhgLmRb2exTZAmRqUXpnG1cKi9MFVDEoCPLsFYfv9OtRSzrMxOfTCIUFVho989v4qcSAVPYH01w4hzzTEXB3d81vgIY7jTbJWCmSYIk8kJX3oQuVuNqd6g_zzEW5OIur7E/s200/IMAG0067.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaCvLLpwYg0/UkeQlXraAaI/AAAAAAAAfmk/gDNkT3AKV7U/s1600/IMAG0068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="113" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaCvLLpwYg0/UkeQlXraAaI/AAAAAAAAfmk/gDNkT3AKV7U/s200/IMAG0068.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
The bumper was about 3/4 inch higher on the passenger side. The inner bracket had to be pushed downwards a bit. Problem solved.<br />
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Not bad for a Ford Mustang rookie family. It feels good knowing that you are using brand new shiny hardware, and that all original parts reused are clean and refurbished.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HUs96Fx-aO8/UkeXrK4l-eI/AAAAAAAAfnE/jRqbbaxqK-A/s1600/IMAG0072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HUs96Fx-aO8/UkeXrK4l-eI/AAAAAAAAfnE/jRqbbaxqK-A/s320/IMAG0072.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-73427572247277713472013-09-21T08:26:00.000-07:002013-09-23T07:12:25.209-07:00Back in Business: Putting my car together <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Taking advantage of the nice weather and 2-week vacation, I've been working very hard to try to finish my car before winter arrives. I began with the cleaning, stripping and painting of the many chassis parts that were disassembled, some mechanicals and electricals that needed to be done. A bunch of new parts were ordered.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V2KJoRh-70Q/Uj24OyYcXcI/AAAAAAAAeX4/5bvjM2Hdols/s1600/IMAG1648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V2KJoRh-70Q/Uj24OyYcXcI/AAAAAAAAeX4/5bvjM2Hdols/s320/IMAG1648.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The fuel sending unit was not working properly, so I ordered a new one without realizing that the one I need; with the low-level sensor and three-terminal connector, is no longer produced. So I took the new one as a "donor" and removed the buoy, the filter and the gasket for installation in the old unit to be refurbished. Then I disassembled the variable resistor, cleaned and re-tensioned the moving contact, checked its operation with an ohmmeter and assembled it. Then I replaced the rubber hose, gasket and grommet. Now it works like it should.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Os16rQmT64E/Uj24nW28AmI/AAAAAAAAeYA/qBqVV2HeCvw/s1600/IMAG1638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Os16rQmT64E/Uj24nW28AmI/AAAAAAAAeYA/qBqVV2HeCvw/s320/IMAG1638.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n1m7rcThFgE/Uj2zHsWk2ZI/AAAAAAAAeWg/ZcZqS10Q3oQ/s1600/IMAG1643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n1m7rcThFgE/Uj2zHsWk2ZI/AAAAAAAAeWg/ZcZqS10Q3oQ/s320/IMAG1643.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2NMJPTe3Z4V64jABCZ8rIlm42ILwF6rKLSD4Wa2g6YLhmNkZNhE0uhq8bZsmYHiToV_5azL_ZC1tXSg0rRJ-H05oV6EfAYicthGrrxaKpS9WlihSJ_MM_7jmXTceLdz6yCGxR5a46m8/s1600/IMAG1637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2NMJPTe3Z4V64jABCZ8rIlm42ILwF6rKLSD4Wa2g6YLhmNkZNhE0uhq8bZsmYHiToV_5azL_ZC1tXSg0rRJ-H05oV6EfAYicthGrrxaKpS9WlihSJ_MM_7jmXTceLdz6yCGxR5a46m8/s320/IMAG1637.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I took on the automatic transmission shifter, that was wobbling all over because it was missing the shift selector bushings. It was an easy job that was completed in about one hour.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wq1J9OViPNQ/Uj21_Mwjo7I/AAAAAAAAeW4/_kbCphzQNAI/s1600/IMAG1658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wq1J9OViPNQ/Uj21_Mwjo7I/AAAAAAAAeW4/_kbCphzQNAI/s320/IMAG1658.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Everything was cleaned and lubed as needed:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl4tJTU-EbgC90Y7BUkyrAWGdW5Hfd6NvhpQTnFOI74kuSsGALWwMaBBNLIGiD1EEicqo41uhuLu5Qx8sMMjz3R6sADceIYoq3NJ9NHGqoD_kki2qjMzCxbJnrqopNDCIA1BP0T9DKxOA/s1600/IMAG1662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl4tJTU-EbgC90Y7BUkyrAWGdW5Hfd6NvhpQTnFOI74kuSsGALWwMaBBNLIGiD1EEicqo41uhuLu5Qx8sMMjz3R6sADceIYoq3NJ9NHGqoD_kki2qjMzCxbJnrqopNDCIA1BP0T9DKxOA/s320/IMAG1662.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nTBcuObXzp8/Uj22HWT5udI/AAAAAAAAeXI/wnpcBIU5y3E/s1600/IMAG1663.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nTBcuObXzp8/Uj22HWT5udI/AAAAAAAAeXI/wnpcBIU5y3E/s320/IMAG1663.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--3WiNWqBj_A/Uj22F0Rhj4I/AAAAAAAAeXA/cZ52TI24m9Y/s1600/IMAG1665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--3WiNWqBj_A/Uj22F0Rhj4I/AAAAAAAAeXA/cZ52TI24m9Y/s320/IMAG1665.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
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Ah! finally a shifter column that shifts straight!</div>
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When this is done, after installation you have to raise the rear wheels and test the shifting with the engine running to make sure its shifting right; reverse, neutral and forward.</div>
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Last year I took my wife on a date to the Mt. Pocono Casino Theater for Burgers and fries (the best!) and a movie. After the show when we got back to the Mustang, it would not start. Needless to say, my pride was hurt and I was a bit embarrassed. But I isolated the problem to the alternator wiring and we got back home safely. I finally replaced it with a new unit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh_7hvEHqJD5tucOSD5iMz_wCCxj3xu4ZnP_7h6PdjfPYeo_0OlsBkX_XrCFrtKGPYt4c8G3F61M9PHBSbTgqWH0OzqR64AXaeL1bqx3iDmvKIT-Ais7Ki-HStPHCh8aU-oEcAGhy1VnA/s1600/IMAG1650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh_7hvEHqJD5tucOSD5iMz_wCCxj3xu4ZnP_7h6PdjfPYeo_0OlsBkX_XrCFrtKGPYt4c8G3F61M9PHBSbTgqWH0OzqR64AXaeL1bqx3iDmvKIT-Ais7Ki-HStPHCh8aU-oEcAGhy1VnA/s320/IMAG1650.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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While at it, I removed the battery tray, stripped it bare and repainted it:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqO0pTCiAcw/Uj23zs-WP1I/AAAAAAAAeXs/jDZXmE3H-s4/s1600/IMAG1652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqO0pTCiAcw/Uj23zs-WP1I/AAAAAAAAeXs/jDZXmE3H-s4/s320/IMAG1652.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I replaced the 47-year old, battered and brittle quarter window weatherstrips with new ones:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5D6pP6_UF00/Uj4noSC_QEI/AAAAAAAAewE/nrWso7Q84oA/s1600/IMAG1671%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5D6pP6_UF00/Uj4noSC_QEI/AAAAAAAAewE/nrWso7Q84oA/s320/IMAG1671%5B1%5D.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
I cleaned the rails and greased the rollers. It's great to have a lot of car work to do, and the time to do it.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AIYW6OEU8pQ/Uj5LvqgZd_I/AAAAAAAAew0/K5qr7hzzhiA/s1600/IMAG1669%5B1%5D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AIYW6OEU8pQ/Uj5LvqgZd_I/AAAAAAAAew0/K5qr7hzzhiA/s400/IMAG1669%5B1%5D.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-23807574851456588842013-08-29T13:06:00.000-07:002013-08-30T11:42:18.043-07:00New paintjob-nice way of receiving the 50th!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
...Anniversary of the Ford Mustang, that is. Many Mustang enthusiasts are preparing their calendars and cars for all events related to the anniversary. Well, I am happy to say that I will participate in many events with a newly painted and renovated '67 Mustang. Finally my car has been painted in shiny lime gold. And it looks really nice. It will be delivered today by STN Auto Restorations, Inc. The experience was great. Now its time to add the goodies, the vinyl top, carpet and dash pad, interior panels, the chrome trim, windshield and backlight, etc. I know the winter season will slow me down, but I'll do what I can.<br />
Here are some pics of the painted car. It is not a finished product yet. We agreed to get the vinyl top, all weatherstrip and other things installed before the car is polished. Then the chrome trim will follow. My car's tail light panel applique is getting a special coat of silvery paint, so that will also take some time. Why all this and not get it all done in one shot? Simply, to save a buck or two. My son (who just joined the Pennsylvania National Guard and is in Basic Training right now) will be attending Civil Engineering at Penn State next year, so that is going to require that the Mustang take other-than first place in my priorities!!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9F_a_jIOS4s/Uh99zCjhhbI/AAAAAAAAc_I/QcIj8vnKxFc/s1600/img_0826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9F_a_jIOS4s/Uh99zCjhhbI/AAAAAAAAc_I/QcIj8vnKxFc/s200/img_0826.jpg" width="149" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_tl9aUh6GZk/UiB7asWQC9I/AAAAAAAAdBA/rh1p-d4Cf1k/s1600/jambing3!.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_tl9aUh6GZk/UiB7asWQC9I/AAAAAAAAdBA/rh1p-d4Cf1k/s200/jambing3!.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VElF-tu-q7Y/UiCAvZrHdeI/AAAAAAAAdCA/fBB5OSfNqMA/s1600/img_0828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VElF-tu-q7Y/UiCAvZrHdeI/AAAAAAAAdCA/fBB5OSfNqMA/s200/img_0828.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzzhy7apPcyOAo_j_2SQqHgLzY597bD_PNH1KZepwSoUojjwFn0BNFiciwn45cLMhsDf6Yu6cOhQMpkg2J3fBfdtyRpRuh9YdRNq_xd6lWFxsQQYq5rsHahEfxTKxFmq_igiIFnTAeWg/s1600/img_1104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzzhy7apPcyOAo_j_2SQqHgLzY597bD_PNH1KZepwSoUojjwFn0BNFiciwn45cLMhsDf6Yu6cOhQMpkg2J3fBfdtyRpRuh9YdRNq_xd6lWFxsQQYq5rsHahEfxTKxFmq_igiIFnTAeWg/s200/img_1104.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X988jkeQVjQ/UiCApHwgbQI/AAAAAAAAdBw/mlfpwT27aSg/s1600/img_1352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X988jkeQVjQ/UiCApHwgbQI/AAAAAAAAdBw/mlfpwT27aSg/s200/img_1352.jpg" width="149" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6ie5Cj-8Z7s/UiCCIDKXaaI/AAAAAAAAdCM/acVw0vacA0Q/s1600/img_0821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6ie5Cj-8Z7s/UiCCIDKXaaI/AAAAAAAAdCM/acVw0vacA0Q/s200/img_0821.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
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Most small parts, including the headlight buckets, doors, etc were sandblasted. The front valance, stone guard and cowl assy. are all new sheetmetal.<br />
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These images belong to the Second To None Auto Restorations Website: www.stnsecondtonone.com<br />
They still had not installed the hood and side vents, as well as the Q-Panel extensions, the front valance and other items.<br />
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-36299783035254264712013-07-03T13:53:00.000-07:002013-07-09T18:37:35.247-07:00Small jobs that make a huge difference<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Getting rid of 40-year old worn out weatherstrip rubber, felt, watershield and insulation was next on my Mustang project. Not only because it was all crackled and weathered, but also because of the awful smell of rotten rubber that makes a car smell like a...46-year old car.<br />
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<b>VENT WINDOW WEATHERSTRIP</b><br />
I finally tackled the weatherstrip around the vent windows and found it to be easier than I thought it would be.<br />
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1<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c7gVoz96q1c/Ub4EVQ4VZWI/AAAAAAAAX8U/LOH1IaTxOso/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c7gVoz96q1c/Ub4EVQ4VZWI/AAAAAAAAX8U/LOH1IaTxOso/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0343.jpg" width="200" /></a><img height="148" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gB10Fkz2p_k/Ub37B0a269I/AAAAAAAAX78/6y82ZNQ41vg/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0342.jpg" style="text-align: left;" width="200" /> 2</div>
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The Scott Drake replacement kit is of excellent quality and fit perfectly, at a better price than the "original Ford" types that you can still get from some suppliers. The photos above show a comparison between the new rubber and the old. After 46 years old, it was time for a replacement!</div>
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3<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qVtOHYln9V8/Ub35zYAWOLI/AAAAAAAAX7A/oyjbB2TAPBA/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qVtOHYln9V8/Ub35zYAWOLI/AAAAAAAAX7A/oyjbB2TAPBA/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0337.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Uw-As7bgJQ/Ub4NO0y4WOI/AAAAAAAAX9o/P6t57ihUmu8/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Uw-As7bgJQ/Ub4NO0y4WOI/AAAAAAAAX9o/P6t57ihUmu8/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0348.jpg" width="200" /></a>4</div>
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The assembly was taken apart, cleaned and reassembled with the new parts. First was the window to door seal (4), the inner (triangular) weatherstrip (5) and the thin frame-to-door seal strips (6) using 3M emblem adhesive. </div>
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5<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GaJ9M3VgqDmh8Np_fj2dZiBIQTug2TJMliMSOUAQKnCf1Eknf-8eUt65IlfQIDaa5IHgt3pW5QbkqIMQKhjzIZR_7xm6A4gSSDLNTbrHDxmMpkR0ugq5hk3FKM-QZTwYTtjgcXxpU9g/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0341.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GaJ9M3VgqDmh8Np_fj2dZiBIQTug2TJMliMSOUAQKnCf1Eknf-8eUt65IlfQIDaa5IHgt3pW5QbkqIMQKhjzIZR_7xm6A4gSSDLNTbrHDxmMpkR0ugq5hk3FKM-QZTwYTtjgcXxpU9g/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0341.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vNAfpVMJH8o/Ub4NWclPPtI/AAAAAAAAX90/-KAHGeXMZ_U/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vNAfpVMJH8o/Ub4NWclPPtI/AAAAAAAAX90/-KAHGeXMZ_U/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0349.jpg" width="200" /></a>6</div>
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7 <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cXK4kvRuF_g/Ub34Ylu8mcI/AAAAAAAAX6U/1FMeL64c8IE/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cXK4kvRuF_g/Ub34Ylu8mcI/AAAAAAAAX6U/1FMeL64c8IE/w1176-h873-no/IMAG0334.jpg" width="200" /></a> <a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lBHktjhVR3o/UdNcGK6pMRI/AAAAAAAAaCM/GhivJC2APCk/w648-h873-no/IMAG0578.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lBHktjhVR3o/UdNcGK6pMRI/AAAAAAAAaCM/GhivJC2APCk/w648-h873-no/IMAG0578.jpg" width="148" /></a> 8</div>
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The original, worn, door run weatherstrip felt (7) was also removed and replaced. This will greatly reduce the rattle inside the door, from the window glass while rolled down.</div>
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<b>SOUND DEADENER REPLACEMENT</b></div>
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Once that was done, I replaced the original (rotten and awfully stinking) insulation/sound deadening felt from behind the inner quarter trim panels. Yes, I put on my filter mask and latex gloves on for this one! I removed the original pieces and laid them over the new material. Then I cut them to shape and glued them to the clean panels using spray glue. Nothing to it.<br />
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I ordered new watershields for the quarter and brand-new (and quite expensive) door panels. I really don't want these to catch any water! These are made of a clear plastic film, not paper like the originals. Fit was good and it can easily be trimmed if necessary.</div>
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Finally, I also pre-assembled the new, shiny tail light lenses I bought a year ago:</div>
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NICE!</div>
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I asked the bodyshop to repaint my car's aplique panels in gloss metallic gray instead of color-keyed lime gold. My best understanding is that the aplique panels came from the factory unpainted (aluminum). I think they will look a lot better in the new metallic gray:</div>
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Happy 4th of July to all my good friends!<br />
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-13117451714279557862013-06-06T05:59:00.001-07:002013-06-06T06:13:44.897-07:00More interior work: Center console (Part 1)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
My car was originally equipped with the Interior Décor Group, that included the automatic transmission center console, a large, elegant and very expensive piece. Current prices for a reproduction are over $1,000.0. from a typical classic mustang parts supplier. I finally took mine apart and renovated it to bring back a fresh look as much as possible. It was a 1-day job that saved me from house chores or total boredom. Taking it apart was an easy job of removing the original 8-Track FoMoCo radio, 6 nuts and unsnapping the brushed metal trim. <br />
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While inspecting it, I found the origin of some of the squeaking noise inside the car; loose parts:</div>
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The console is in good shape for being a 47-year original, but a structural "crossbar" had to be glued back together, and a small crack pressed together and epoxied. I think that all of these broken and detached parts contributed to squeaks inside the car.<br />
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I painted the plastic with Ivy Gold interior dye which seems to stick fine to the harder plastic and look natural.</div>
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The brushed metal surfaces will have to be covered with an overlay since my originals are beyond salvation; too faded, scratched and pitted (the rear one served as a cup holder for too long). The 5-piece brushed metal overlay kit costs $189.00, but it's worth it for the big difference it makes. There's a mylar (plastic sticker) overlay sold for about $70.0, but I'll draw the line there. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y6qhtw14UWA/Ua8ULy2kV0I/AAAAAAAAXGY/arVuxR97inE/s1600/IMAG0159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y6qhtw14UWA/Ua8ULy2kV0I/AAAAAAAAXGY/arVuxR97inE/s200/IMAG0159.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AqpQ_GEu1W8/Ua8Uomd94WI/AAAAAAAAXGs/ABWBnjd0Huo/s1600/IMAG0154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AqpQ_GEu1W8/Ua8Uomd94WI/AAAAAAAAXGs/ABWBnjd0Huo/s200/IMAG0154.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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The original Ford radio is a museum piece that still works.<br />
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Then I cleaned and masked the simulated black leather part and painted them black satin</div>
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So that was a nice weekend project. When the metal overlays arrive I'll put everything back together. I'm sure It will look a lot better and feel a lot tighter.</div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-27411772224402670222013-05-30T05:14:00.000-07:002013-06-04T17:46:23.246-07:00One thing about chrome trim...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's been a long while since I posted anything on my Blog. It must have been the long winter. We are finally seeing nice warm days, but I don't have a lot of time before the cold returns in October. The car is still getting worked on. Progress has been slow. It was a long winter for them too, but it's coming out very nicely. <br />
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I'd say it's even better than it was before. Panels fit a lot better, all flush, creases are sharper and gaps are even. The doors have been removed and are being worked on. Some primer has been applied. Here's the website:<br />
<a href="http://stnsecondtonone.com/?page_id=1028">http://stnsecondtonone.com/?page_id=1028</a><br />
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In the meantime, Alanis and I have been keeping busy ordering new parts, cleaning and organizing the garage, and cleaning and polishing the chrome trim. <br />
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One thing about chrome trim is that there are no in-betweens. It either looks good and can be polished for reuse, or it gets replaced. The problem is finding good enough trim, that matches the luster, smoothness and quality (thickness) of the original Ford. My car was in such good shape that most of the original trim is still there, but some is too banged up and scratched to be reused. I ordered all replacement trim from my supplier; CJ Ponyparts. They carry several brands like Motowell, Classic Reproductions and Scott Drake. Of the three, Scott Drake makes the best quality, but you got to get what's available, and within your budget. My new hood trim is Motowell brand while my deck lid trim is Classic Reproductions. Neither of these brands have the deep luster, smoothness and quality feel of the original Ford. It is a pity that some original trim can't be restored for reuse. They are of such excellent quality compared to the new stuff. But they are beyond repair. So I have to be careful not to install new and old trim side by side. The difference will surely be noticed. <br />
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We are using 0000-gauge steel wool (from Walmart) and it works great for both cleaning and polishing. It leaves no micro scratches or lines that can be discernible. I don't have to use anything else.<br />
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I still have to convince my wife to let me buy a new horse and corral and side blades, since my original is too pitted. This is one chrome part that I think must look good above all others. It falls outside of my planned budget, so talks and negotiations are in effect.... A fair happy medium would be to get the side blades new, and repaint the corral <br />
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The vent windows are also getting a thorough cleaning, polishing and lube job. Also I am replacing the old rubber and felt with a replacement kit.</div>
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We are glad winter is over. It was a long and bitter one. But we are back to work and eagerly awaiting the arrival of El Chato in shiny lime gold.</div>
Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-43633525049626962132013-01-25T07:54:00.000-08:002013-01-25T07:54:39.825-08:00Going to the Bodyshop!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well, the time came for my Mustang to go to the body shop. STN Restorations will complete all bodywork and paint the car in its original lime gold color. I am delighted that I finally found a suitable auto body shop for my car. These gentlemen appreciated my car from the beginning, understanding its relative rarity among currently remaining 67 coupes, and encouraged me to maintain its original look, feel and character. <br />
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The plan is to get the car back by May and I will complete the renovations like new chrome trim (where needed), new seals everywhere, new floor insulation and carpeting, door panels, new 7" styled steel wheels, new leaf springs, and a lot more. Hopefully after the car hits the road I will save some money and replace the entire electrical wiring which is all original and in poor shape, although it seems to work properly.<br />
One of the reasons I decided to farm out the remaining bodywork and paint is because I just don't have the skills, tools or facilities necessary to make the car look the way I wanted it to look. So I left this to the professionals. Also, all the hand block sanding and difficult body positions was taking its toll on my already bruised joints. </div>
Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-22034558508405775912013-01-20T18:39:00.000-08:002013-01-21T06:33:00.296-08:001968 Road Trip in a 1964 Mercury Comet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
My dad sent me these old pictures, one from one of several road trips we took from our home on the north coast town of Loiza Valley, PR, across the Central Cordillera (scary, very scary back then!), to the south coast town of Guanica, where my dad was born. There are other, even older photos of us in Guanica when I was a baby, but this road trip photo is very special because I remember when we stopped to take this photo. My dad would not let me leave the car and we had been on the road for like 4 hours!<br />
Back then the trip to Guanica took about 6-7 hours, and you arrived very tired and sick with nausea from the smog and the terribly dangerous, narrow, winding roads around the rugged mountains of the Central Cordillera. Now days is a leisurely drive of less than 3 hours through the majestic Las Americas Highway, completed in 1972.<br />
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I am the little 3-year old kid in the back with my older sister. My mom is in the front seat with my baby sister. My two cousins are waving. My dad took the picture.</div>
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The second pic is the Comet, my dad's second car, parked on our then brand new home's driveway. My dad was (still is) a Ford Guy. Back then he worked at the now closed, huge Fomoco Plant in Canovanas, PR, where they built all kinds of parts for Ford cars and trucks. Those were the days of the 1968 Mustang. the Galaxy and the Fairlane, but we were poor, we had a simple but very reliable 6-cylinder Comet that never ever broke down.</div>
Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-70627770253477866372012-11-09T12:39:00.001-08:002013-01-16T16:24:02.325-08:00Bodywork post Hurricane Sandy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well, Sandy destroyed my recently completed paint booth, so I took the remaining frame pieces and tarp scattered all over the yard and placed them on a corner of the booth floor. I'll try to put it back together during this 3-day weekend (Veteran's Day)...We were lucky to get only some storm-strength wind gusts. Nothing bad really happened, except...<br />
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Today was finally nice and sunny (although a chilly 43-degrees), so I resumed bodywork after a week of inactivity. I'm using Evercoat Rage Gold Body Filler.<br />
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I know its time to remove the remaining trim (side vents, door handle, etc...) but right now I just want to complete all bodywork and the shaping and sculpting before it gets really cold around here.<br />
Now to the movies to watch Skyfall. Life is good!</div>
Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-85587936120342969582012-10-21T18:12:00.000-07:002012-12-08T12:38:04.395-08:00Panel Fitting nightmare<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
These last few weeks have been a little challenging for me. Work on the car has continued, but I took a break and decided to build a semi-permanent garage with a fully-enclosed canopy (12'x17') from Harbor freight, on a wooden floor built with free scrap wood from the base's scrap yard (so lucky!...). The garage came out nice, but it's been a little difficult to make it weather-proof. I'm still keeping the car in the garage, but the time might come when I need to setup a paint booth for myself if I can't find a painter who can do the job within my budget.<br />
I've have also spent a few days of the weekend at the firing range, enjoying the local wildlife (and saving it with the help of my multitalented wife) and at the hockey arena (Go Penguins!), now that my beloved Yankees have been eliminated (in a most decidedly sweeping manner) by the Detroit Tigers.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wjPD5BsVoeo/UISU08gLM9I/AAAAAAAADC4/3n0YhOkr8OY/s1600/2012-10-01+19.00.39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wjPD5BsVoeo/UISU08gLM9I/AAAAAAAADC4/3n0YhOkr8OY/s200/2012-10-01+19.00.39.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OPp9gjPQb8E/UISVCg5u1GI/AAAAAAAADDA/mZhc0uk08v8/s1600/2012-10-02+19.36.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OPp9gjPQb8E/UISVCg5u1GI/AAAAAAAADDA/mZhc0uk08v8/s200/2012-10-02+19.36.11.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qUAMq_NCLQ0/UISVoAhBvtI/AAAAAAAADDI/u1yWGjLalfU/s1600/2012-10-20+20.00.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qUAMq_NCLQ0/UISVoAhBvtI/AAAAAAAADDI/u1yWGjLalfU/s200/2012-10-20+20.00.42.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q38pohzjU2M/UIScXlkE8AI/AAAAAAAADEU/rH4p7MC0uH0/s1600/2012-10-07+14.35.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q38pohzjU2M/UIScXlkE8AI/AAAAAAAADEU/rH4p7MC0uH0/s200/2012-10-07+14.35.13.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Sanding and grinding has continued at a slower pace, since I don't like working in cold weather. And believe me, it gets pretty cold here in the Poconos of NE Pennsylvania. This weekend I decided to put the fenders and hood back together to assess fitting of panels, prior to applying body filler on the fenders and doors. And man, do I have my work cut out for me! I made a mistake of not measuring how much old filler I removed here and there (in some areas over 1/8th inch thick!) to assure myself that the panels have been bolted down properly. But regardless, I have a lot of fitting work to do. The sharp side crease doesn't match well from the door to the fender. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ccag02UG0SE/UISZ_C0iS3I/AAAAAAAADDw/2v1mmyUKjO4/s1600/2012-10-21+15.16.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ccag02UG0SE/UISZ_C0iS3I/AAAAAAAADDw/2v1mmyUKjO4/s320/2012-10-21+15.16.57.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-443XJHiCXAA/UIScCjVywUI/AAAAAAAADEM/mhAr5va2acI/s1600/2012-10-21+15.18.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-443XJHiCXAA/UIScCjVywUI/AAAAAAAADEM/mhAr5va2acI/s320/2012-10-21+15.18.57.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The hood, which is a repro piece, never fit well before and its shut line was practically non existent. Still is. I will have to learn how to grind down the sides of the hood (if it can be done, and to what extent?) so as to have an acceptable shutline between the hood and the fenders.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CODj6rkCri4/UISaK-fd9uI/AAAAAAAADD4/dJwDA4C4IeA/s1600/2012-10-21+16.16.20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CODj6rkCri4/UISaK-fd9uI/AAAAAAAADD4/dJwDA4C4IeA/s320/2012-10-21+16.16.20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Also I need to level the cowl surface to the hood. Right now I have a 1/4-inch drop between the newly-installed cowl and the passenger side of the hood! So I know that the hood needs further adjustment, since the cowl is right on the money. But this is the time when a little advice from my friends can really help a lot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU-XdPWY1MOW6gNmX8XaawhQs2q4uk40Vod0hktmc3V-NxgUXAt7MjZYImnub0523svfrbDfTxMdBhzjQbAcUBEpb7X5LVEN98XoQ2kbVWSjGCrJVYKvRTbKhVcYFX8NlWw3xFIr0clzM/s1600/2012-10-21+16.16.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU-XdPWY1MOW6gNmX8XaawhQs2q4uk40Vod0hktmc3V-NxgUXAt7MjZYImnub0523svfrbDfTxMdBhzjQbAcUBEpb7X5LVEN98XoQ2kbVWSjGCrJVYKvRTbKhVcYFX8NlWw3xFIr0clzM/s320/2012-10-21+16.16.26.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-91749979943997574072012-09-16T08:28:00.001-07:002013-11-14T18:38:36.451-08:0067-68 Coupe-The Numbers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I had been debating whether to finish my car as a Luxury Coupe, or to save myself some trouble and delete a few items from the original Interior Decor Group, such as the vinyl top and its related trim and the tail panel appliques. I even considered changing the color to a more modern but timeless one (whatever that means!). I finally decided I would go ahead and finish it as a Luxury Coupe with all its original look elements. Looks are all subject to taste. Some folks dislike the "period" (a sensible term when refering to old, dated, passé) look that the vinyl top and Lime Gold color presents. I very much prefer the chrome bezels that surround the newly-designed concave tail lights of the 67'-68'. But most everyone tells me to keep the much rarer ribbed panel looks, which I'll do against my personal preference. Because not always it comes down to personal preference. Sensitivity to originality and/or budget (I already surpassed mine long ago and I'm not even halfway through) count also.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5CTFNSo-RsA/UFZ_Q9ECvzI/AAAAAAAAC9s/2_1m1CYM74E/s1600/2011-07-25+13.08.50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5CTFNSo-RsA/UFZ_Q9ECvzI/AAAAAAAAC9s/2_1m1CYM74E/s200/2011-07-25+13.08.50.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Two-tone deluxe seats of the Interior Decor Group</span></div>
<br />
... I got the go-ahead from the Finance Department (read: wife) to complete my car as original. The Finance Department loves the period-look, along with the Lime Gold paint. The Production Department (yours truly) likes it too, but he is stuck with all of the difficult work. But the thing that sealed the deal was the realization of the relative (to standard coupes) rarity of my car, as shown by production numbers for the 67-68 Mustang. Here are the numbers as provided by <a href="http://themustangsource.com/timeline/67-68/67/index.htm" target="_blank">The Mustang Source</a>:<br />
<br />
<b>1967 Mustang Production:</b><br />
<table border="0" bordercolor="#111111" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><tbody>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Convertible, standard: 38,751</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Convertible, bench seat</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">1,209</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Convertible, luxury</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">4,848</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, standard</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">325,853</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, bench seat</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">8,190</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="background-color: yellow; font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, luxury</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="background-color: yellow; font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">22,228</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Fastback, standard</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">53,651</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Fastback, luxury</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">17,391</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><i><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Total</span></i></td><td align="right" width="50%"><i><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">472,121</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For 1968 even less Luxury Coupes were produced, most likely as a result and reflection of sales of the 1967 Luxury Coupe. Hey, those were the REAL days of thunder; the Camaro had just come out, a C-Code Luxury Coupe was not in Ford enthusiasts minds that much.<br />
<br />
<b>1968 Mustang Production:</b><br />
<table border="0" bordercolor="#111111" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><tbody>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Convertible, standard</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">22,037</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Convertible, deluxe</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">3,339</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, standard</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">233,472</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, bench seats</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">6,113</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="background-color: yellow; font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, deluxe</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="background-color: yellow; font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">9,009</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Coupe, deluxe, bench seats</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">853</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Fastback, standard</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">33,585</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Fastback, bench seats</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">1,079</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Fastback, deluxe</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">7,661</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Fastback, deluxe, bench seats</span></td><td align="right" width="50%"><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">256</span></td></tr>
<tr><td width="50%"><i><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">Total</span></i></td><td align="right" width="50%"><i><span style="font-family: tahoma; font-size: x-small;">317,404</span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">(Source: The Mustang Source, Timeline, which in turn comes from <u>Mustang...By the Numbers</u>, by Kevin Marty)</span><br />
<br />
So, in the end about 31,000 Deluxe Coupes were produced for the 67-78 model cycle. One might think: "31,000, that's a lot of Deluxe Coupes", but I am certain that throughout the years, as the surviving of these "less-valuable" coupes fell in the hands of second and third owners, most of them modified these without retaining the original luxury coupe look; the original factory AC's eliminated, the vinyl top and trim never replaced, the applique panels sold to make money for that new Edelbrock 4-barrel carb, the "passé" and unsporty and common Lime Gold color (the most produced color in 67 and 68) replaced with other more sportier or modern colors, etc. Just exactly what I was considering, to save myself a few bucks and headaches. Once stripped of their former original appearance, very few enthusiasts are willing to spend the money to bring these cars back to their former look, knowing they will never get their investment back. So this is the reason why I see so few deluxe coupes out there, and when I see one, I spend a great deal of time (and megapixels) around the car. How many are there left right now? no one knows for certain. And since no one pays attention to the lowly coupe, there are no registries that I know of. No one is counting the coupes.....<br />
<br />
Nowadays you can buy a brand new Fastback body and frame for a little north of 15-grand (you gotta really want it!), and close to the same for a convertible shell. It makes me wonder if the perceived value of original fastback and convertible project cars (notice I said <b>project</b> cars), is changing in the minds of collectors. 10 years ago a collector knew that a fully-finished or project fastback or convertible was what was left, there was no Dynacorn around. Even a parts car from a junkyard was valuable for its parts. So the mentality may have been to grab whatever was available according to their collector and/or project plans. Now these junkyard parts cars can rot to hell, since we have a huge variety of sheet metal parts in the vigorous Mustang aftermarket. The new mentality then might have changed to choose between either a restorable vintage for $30-40,000.0 or buy a new shell for about half and build a brand new 67-68. So I am wondering if the idea for the value of a car to restore has really changed, knowing now that you can go to a junkyard and grab the serial number tags of an old rotted out, nowadays unrestorable Mustang and weld them to a brand new Dynacorn shell, while a few years ago that old rotten car was valuable, since it was the only way to have a classic Mustang...<br />
<br />
Oh but wait! Dynacorn does not make complete coupe bodyshells! (who wants them?!) That same reasoning can be applied to Deluxe Coupes like mine: what is left is what is left, no Dynacorn shells. Kids (who can only afford coupes) will continue to grab and modify them to their heart's desire.The Restomod movement and market is too strong and irresistible. Another potential original-look restoration will be lost. And so on and so on, until very soon than later, not that many will remain original.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3BzRCfI-flQ/UFXn251W2QI/AAAAAAAAC9M/nnVk8Q1qSpM/s1600/DSCN1940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3BzRCfI-flQ/UFXn251W2QI/AAAAAAAAC9M/nnVk8Q1qSpM/s320/DSCN1940.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">This extremely nice 1967 Branded Coupe was my Star of the show at the last Carlisle Ford Nationals. It was only one original coupe, among tens of much "more valuable" Shelby's.</span></div>
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Back to my car. So it was the numbers that made me decide to go the extra mile to restore my car to as much of its original look as possible, within a set budget, reusing as many parts as possible until I can afford to replace them with new parts. Long ago I ceased to let my decisions be influenced by how much money I could get if I decided to sell it. It is a bad driving force and takes the fun away. But knowing that your car is really special to me because of the way I perceive its rarity, makes my efforts a lot more fun and meaningful.......<br />
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-39048369692127270982012-09-12T06:20:00.000-07:002012-09-12T07:50:51.327-07:00Finding furtive fire hazards in your car mancave<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I was reading the 11th September Army Safety Gram: Finding Furtive Fire Hazards, and found a few things that I can do to minimize fire hazards in the small garage where my precious is being renovated. Fire hazards are everywhere and it is up to us to recognize them and do everything we can to prevent them. My wife always asks me 2 questions when I come into the house after an afternoon's work: did you unplug the extension cords? Did you close the garage door? She knows I am tired and I usually forget to do things. I really appreciate her follow-up and feel good that I have that extra layer of safety to make sure nothing goes wrong. <br />
These are the things I need to do right away to make my workplace safer:<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Maintain a metal container with a lid to store all of my cleaning rags, especially if they are oily</li>
<li>Empty the trash every day after every work session. Most of the stuff in a trash can can fuel a fire.</li>
<li>Sweep and wipe surfaces on a daily basis. Fine dusts and powders can burn and cause explosions.</li>
<li>Get rid of an old sofa (made of wood and vinyl). No need for it to be there and it can feed a fire.</li>
<li>I got me a used space heater for when winter arrives. I will not use it. It's just not safe (it's not the heater, it's the operator!).</li>
<li>Keep all of my spray paints, solvents, and anything flammable, in a metal storage cabinet outside of the garage. Easy!</li>
<li>NEVER overload an electrical circuit. Use one power tool at a time and minimize daisy-chaining</li>
<li>Inspect all extension cords for serviceability.</li>
<li>Keep a good fire extinguisher close by.</li>
<li>Finally, after every session of work, I will run through every item of this Safetygram checklist.</li>
</ol>
In this website there are many useful safety Grams for everyone to read:<br />
<a href="http://www.hnd.usace.army.mil/safety/Safety_Grams.aspx">http://www.hnd.usace.army.mil/safety/Safety_Grams.aspx</a></div>
Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-42337984360242091832012-09-11T18:34:00.003-07:002012-10-06T17:56:07.795-07:00September-grinding and sanding<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A lot of little things have been done lately. And you know what they say about a lot of little things; they add to one big thing. I got me a new sheet finishing sander from HF Tools and with it and a 60-grit flap disk and my grinder I was able to accelerate the sanding process a lot. It is getting dangerously close to priming time.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uEwg1Z2Bq7I/UE_XgTpK0kI/AAAAAAAAC8A/eDLnhLOOupo/s1600/DSCN2851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uEwg1Z2Bq7I/UE_XgTpK0kI/AAAAAAAAC8A/eDLnhLOOupo/s200/DSCN2851.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D52u9Ylldlk/UE_ZEXaUymI/AAAAAAAAC8M/AdrNomCyEsE/s1600/DSCN2850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D52u9Ylldlk/UE_ZEXaUymI/AAAAAAAAC8M/AdrNomCyEsE/s200/DSCN2850.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I was able to repair a broken headlight bucket. It was broken in 3 separate pieces that were cold-welded together using JB Weld metal-reinforced Epoxy. But the part still needs a little sanding and shaping, so I will post pics on a later entry...</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I removed both vent windows to complete the door sanding process and made a quick assessment of what needs to be done. If I had the money, I would buy both complete assemblies at about $320.00 ea (at my local supplier). But I can only replace the slightly pitted FoMoCo-stamped originals and refurbish the rest with all new seals and inserts.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESWCpdAX7ak/UE_fJFcCOjI/AAAAAAAAC8s/ELE4oPDkV2I/s1600/DSCN2859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESWCpdAX7ak/UE_fJFcCOjI/AAAAAAAAC8s/ELE4oPDkV2I/s200/DSCN2859.JPG" width="200" /></a> </div>
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One thing I quickly discovered is that when the car was repainted in 1995, the vent window frames were not removed, only masked, so I'm glad I took these out for a good upgrade. Looking at the Scott Drake Catalog for 2012, It listed the following (modified here by myself for simplicity):</div>
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Vent window Frame-------------C7ZZ6521608-A-----$49.95</div>
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Front door glass run inserts------C7ZZ-6521546/7A---$26.95 (pair)</div>
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Vent window seal---------------C7ZZ-6521488-AR---$22.95 (ea left or right)</div>
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Vent window frame to door seal-C607-6322280-------$4.95 (ea)</div>
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Vent window to door seal-------C7ZZ-6522332/3-----$13.95 (ea)</div>
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Window Channel Strips---------C7ZZ-6521458/9R---$66.95 (kit)</div>
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I can also but the frame and glass assy instead:</div>
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Frame and Glass--------------------------------------- $96.00(R) and $104.00(L) </div>
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So there we have it. It's going to be a $150.0-plus purchase (per vent window) no matter how I slice it. I just hope they all fit properly, look accurate and last a long time.</div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-41096595661383535702012-09-02T17:49:00.003-07:002013-10-13T05:33:59.062-07:00Underdash assembly and cowl welding<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A lot has been done since my last post, but so little time to document it here. I was able to repair most of the Factory Air conditioner parts under the dash; the vacuum hoses were replaced and reconnected, the vacuum motors inspected and cleaned and the electrical connectors replaced. The variable resistor was replaced with a new Scott Drake piece.<br />
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The wiper motor, air vent and washer pump assemblies were disassembled, cleaned, primed, re-painted and lubed. Everything was tested and only 1 motor failed; the air vent actuator motor at the heater box. This one will be easily replaced from underneath the dash later on.<br />
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Then it was all assembled<br />
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the hidden cowl surfaces were cleaned and re-coated with rattle can paint to add a measure of rust protection. Then the grounded plugholes were coated with Weld-Through 2 spray compound. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPg7A2z6-fdO1uV9Bgwi3MykXh4gkisAcR2VyS1T_ZHcZOqCH889dzeXO4e-rtn8Rly5lzsvazDisku91Gm0exN9mhsdYvNfAap7QIr2IYEGt2eziOUfcClozgrBsmpYwvznYZW_oCrLA/s1600/DSCN2798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPg7A2z6-fdO1uV9Bgwi3MykXh4gkisAcR2VyS1T_ZHcZOqCH889dzeXO4e-rtn8Rly5lzsvazDisku91Gm0exN9mhsdYvNfAap7QIr2IYEGt2eziOUfcClozgrBsmpYwvznYZW_oCrLA/s200/DSCN2798.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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Firewall insulation was installed. We used Thermoshield heat and sound insulator from Pep Boys (4x6' for $34.0). Later when we do the interiors, we will consider using it for the rest of the floor. (update, Sept 24, 2013: I removed this stuff and bought a Mass-Back carpet that eliminates the need for any other insulation barriers CID).<br />
<i>(October 2013 Update: I removed this stuff and decided to install a Mass-back carpet from ACC)</i><br />
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Prior to clamping, we insured we left no loose hoses or disconnected wires, that we could not get from under the dash.<br />
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Then we laid down the cowl, clamped it, test-fitted the fenders, and began plug-welding. Both of my kids helped a lot with the fitting, clamping and welding.<br />
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It took us about 1 hour to plug-weld the entire cowl. Following a good piece of advise, I replaced the flux core wire from 0.035 to 0.030. It made a world of difference! We welded with confidence knowing that we were no longer welding through the sheet metal like before. And spatter was greatly reduced. Most plugs were rounded, clean and pretty with a lot less spatter.<br />
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After a little grinding, we re-plugged a couple of plugs and coated the plugs to keep them from rust-flashing. We were happy with our work. Hey! we saved over $1,000.0 doing this ourselves!<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0b0LpuAPDas&feature=youtu.be">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0b0LpuAPDas&feature=youtu.be</a>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-54040285227972365882012-08-23T18:36:00.000-07:002013-11-19T16:00:41.748-08:00Great Charts from Average Joe Restoration<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Something keeping me from finishing the cowl project is the condition of the wiring and vacuum hoses underneath the dash. This issue needs to be addressed before I finally do any welding. The problem was that I simply did not know how how to connect several vacuum hoses into their respective motors. When I removed the old cowl and took a good look inside, I soon realized why several accessories (like my Factory, "Integral" A/C and others) never worked right. I even found a wire terminal (from who knows where yet) connected to a loose vacuum hose! Now how did that ever happen? Well I finally found the detailed diagrams I needed to do this job and they are all here in <b><a href="http://averagejoerestoration.com/resources/mustang-wiring-and-vacuum-diagrams/1967-mustang-wiring-and-vacuum-diagrams/" target="_blank">Average Joe Restoration</a></b>:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/---NMJtg8yCY/UDbXjy5jrGI/AAAAAAAACxA/WJatHuHgpgo/s1600/AC+Vacuum+diagram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="411" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/---NMJtg8yCY/UDbXjy5jrGI/AAAAAAAACxA/WJatHuHgpgo/s640/AC+Vacuum+diagram.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I tried re-connecting a couple of loose hoses here and there but they were all dried out and cracked open as soon as I attempted connecting them to the vacuum motors. So next thing tomorrow will be a stop at my local Auto Parts store to buy about 12 feet of vacuum hose and a couple of T's, and the rest should be an easy replacement job.<br />
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Here is a view of the Reheat Door Motor and the Water valve vacuum switch (small hidden outlet, center-right), both of which were disconnected from their respective hoses:<br />
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<a href="http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0409_ac_repair/viewall.html">http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0409_ac_repair/viewall.html</a>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-6878265115670464992012-08-19T06:57:00.002-07:002012-08-24T11:19:23.627-07:00Body panel fitting after cowl clamping<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Here are some views of how the car looks after a partial reassembly. Not so bad (so far) for a geologist turned full-time soldier with no previous autobodywork experience!</div>
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My daughter decided she was going to continue painting and dying different parts of the car:</div>
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Little Jackson paid us a visit</div>
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cleaning and degreasing the vinyl</div>
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quite a difference! now we've got to find a clean place to store them for a few months...</div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-73988489991552059892012-08-15T15:45:00.002-07:002013-11-18T12:26:03.172-08:00Firewall repair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We finally completed the repair of the firewall. It is a solid, very properly done fix that took me an entire week to do. I used thick, 18-gauge metal from a discarded steel cabinet and shaped it to form a surface on which the new cowl can be welded.<br />
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barely any of the original surface remained at the top edge of the firewall. The new panel was fixed to the firewall side with 6 bolts and self-locking nuts. These were coated with panel bond throughout the entire surface, just to be sure they would not rust in a few years.</div>
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A coat of panel bond (Permatex) was applied. Care was observed not to glue the holes where I plug-welded the panel later</div>
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The remaining firewall top edge metal was first coated with weld-through coating. Then the panel was fixed with clamps and allowed bond overnight.</div>
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The bonding felt solid (notice the bolts at the side) but now it was time to plug-weld the way Alex Olshove showed me. </div>
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Not the nicest plug welds, but good enough for me</div>
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After a little grinding</div>
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A light coat of paint was applied to prevent rust. </div>
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Now it's time to test-fit the cowl, fenders and windshield. Then drill about 100 or so holes and plug-weld the cowl in place. Of course, I had to drill the 4 holes for the tower braces. One this was done, the cowl fit almost perfectly. Clamping was an easy task. Tomorrow I will test-fit the fenders, drill the plug holes and weld away...</div>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-48237374835036886792012-08-13T14:56:00.003-07:002012-08-14T15:03:56.536-07:00Taking a well deserved Break; CJ Pony CAD<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Last Saturday me and the family went to CJ Ponyparts' 12th Customer Appreciation day. A great Ford Mustang gathering took place. Amazingly by 9:00 AM, there were close to 100 ponies there. Sadly this year I could not bring by car, but hopefully next year I will. As usual in car shows, 67-68 models were the minority among classic cars. But I could still count about ten 67/68's, including a Shelby GT-500 and a California Special.<br />
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We were able to visit CJ Pony Service's shop where many ponies were turned into rolling works of art...at a price.<br />
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Many modern Mustangs were present and I'll tell you, these guys are devoted to their modern ponies just as we are to our classics.<br />
After the car show we headed to Gettysburg Battlefield Memorial park, and to Longwood Gardens. What a day!<br />
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-28089438732933130442012-08-08T06:34:00.002-07:002012-08-15T09:31:09.460-07:00August 4-8: Bodywork & Mechanics<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
In the last few days I've had a lot of progress and broken some "fear barriers" that kept me from moving on with the project. I re-sanded the bare metal of the roof and carefully inspected the small pits or grooves on the metal. Then after thoroughly cleaning the bare shiny metal with a metal prep spray, I began applying body filler in thin layers. The process took about half of a "gallon" (it's much less than a gallon, about 1/3rd, when you open the new can!) of filler (Rave Gold).<br />
Lesson learned: let it dry 1/2 hour and remove excess with the shaping file. Don't go and shape-file the next day. It was a lot harder and difficult to shape. But it turned out well, I think. It needs a re-coat here and there, and I got some body filler grooves that I need to refill and correct. Once I get the entire roof shaped smooth, I'll move on to the side panels...<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YlQIzmPPA-Y/UCJSUdiQcGI/AAAAAAAACbA/LkTDJKD1hww/s1600/DSCN2656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YlQIzmPPA-Y/UCJSUdiQcGI/AAAAAAAACbA/LkTDJKD1hww/s200/DSCN2656.JPG" width="200" /></a> <span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Sanding using 150 grit disk and my cheap but reliable and sturdy Chicago Electric sander from HF</i></span></div>
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Yesterday I took a break from bodywork and removed a ball joint (driver side) with the dust boot broken. I inspected it and decided it was best to replace not just that one but both sides. I'll also begin replacing all steering system bushings: Front strut rod bushings, end link bushings, anti-sway bar bushings, front strut bar bushings, etc.<br />
I removed the cowl to apply panel joint sealer to the seam between the hats and the cowl sheet metal, since these seams are not completely tight, the hats are only spot welded. I noticed a growth of flash rust on the firewall metal, after I had brushed away all of it. Now I am starting to really consider glueing the cowl, instead of welding it. Rust will develop no matter what, but if I glue the cowl with 3M 8115 panel bond and reinforce it with bolts, maybe that will help slow down the relentless rusting process that I foresee if I weld my brand new cowl to the firewall. Replacing the firewall is out of the question; no money, no skill, no time...<br />
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Update:<br />
Replaced both upper and lower ball joints on each side. Next comes all bushings...<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggBoc6vj9f1v6ZJJ-q-PjuOJc5QrCMduWK5Rv4xHtxThLNuIL34czdKx065vR8UjPEUYOy-T4pZOf6fA0Xi-EwWxnu1dUplnZUirJy3PZ3jdjefj95G4uhumax8IpKSILWToyfqyMeSNg/s1600/DSCN2665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggBoc6vj9f1v6ZJJ-q-PjuOJc5QrCMduWK5Rv4xHtxThLNuIL34czdKx065vR8UjPEUYOy-T4pZOf6fA0Xi-EwWxnu1dUplnZUirJy3PZ3jdjefj95G4uhumax8IpKSILWToyfqyMeSNg/s200/DSCN2665.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">comparison between old and new. Notice the placement of the grease nipple</td></tr>
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Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-30221223824173199542012-08-01T15:36:00.000-07:002012-08-09T18:49:35.957-07:00August 1, 2012: New Cowl Fit test<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Well, the cowl assembly arrived on Monday and was test fitted yesterday (Wednesday). It was no easy task. None of those aftermarket sheet metal parts fit perfectly to an old car. But how lucky we are that they are available now. Ten years ago I would have had to repair the original cancerous cowl! Right now it lies clamped down over the firewall and windshield frame, temporarily bolted down with the 2 engine bay braces, waiting for me to decide how to weld it together; a complete weld, part weld/part bolts, or a combination of 3M <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 19px;">8115 Panel Bond Adhesive, welding and bolts. I wish I could just weld, but my not so great skills, combined with the gasless nature of my welder, are having me think twice about this...</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">The good thing is that the new cowl did not have to be banged in place, but basically fell pretty much where it is supposed to be. My only worry is about 1/4 inch of offset at the very ends of the cowl (see circle in photo #4). I could cut the extra 1/4 inch on one side, but how do I treat the 1/4-inch void on the other side? </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">Clamping the lower windshield frame to the cowl required pulling the frame about 1/2 inch forward from where it rested. I think I now need to test fit the windshield glass to see if the frame has been deformed/stretched forward, I hope not...</span></div>
</div>Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-9663921780604599652012-07-29T16:20:00.001-07:002012-07-29T16:23:24.745-07:00July 29th. Almost 2 months of work.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This week was a mix of relief and anxiety. Finally declared metalwork on the interior floor complete. I'd like to thank Gavin, my little 11 year old neighbor who has been like a son to me these past few days. He has helped me with the sanding, both hand and DA, and he has been a great DJ (although I'm not so crazy about Katie Perry, I'm more into classic rock). I also want to thank my daughter Alanis who has been a lot of help with the cleaning, painting and garage housekeeping. The best thing about a kid is that they will tell you the truth about what they see. No bullshit about their opinion. When the job looks like crap, they will tell you.<br />
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Like I was saying, the floor is solid. I'm happy with the job I did, both welding, prepping, sealing and finishing. But although I ordered the entire underlayment kit from CJ Ponyparts, the floor will remain naked until the entire car is painted.<br />
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I also worked on the roof patches. Finally applied body filler and sanded down to evenness, but still needs a bit more work. Using body-filler was a new experience for me. I found it to be very easy to apply and control. Mixing the hardener was the tricky part. But I soon realized I could control the application time easily.<br />
All fenders have been reconditioned in the interior (scraped, sanded, cleaned, primed, painted and undercoated. The suspension components were also thoroughly cleaned and repainted. I like how everything looks.<br />
The new cowl should arrive this week. It's a bit intimidating, but I know I can do it. A lot of progress will be done as soon as the cowl is welded in place. The fenders can be reinstalled and prepped while installed. The car can be driven again, this only will help me sleep a lot better.<br />
I placed another order for parts yesterday. This time I ordered the entire interior underlayment kit (original type), a bunch of molding clips and mounting screws, and wiper arm seals.<br />
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I bought 2 cans of Eastwood Interior Frame Rust protection (at $20.0 each) and used for the door posts, under the seat platforms, and the frame bars. I can only hope the product performs as advertised...<br />
<br /></div>Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8465699423428437099.post-70648021220093151492012-07-22T16:10:00.001-07:002012-07-29T06:21:55.852-07:00July 22nd. Stripping and Undercoating<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This week has been extremely productive for me. I finally fixed two "screw-ups" that kept me awake at night; the roof patches, and the seat platform, both fixed and looking great and solidly welded back together. Half of the floor was repaired, tripped, patched, primed and ready for underlayment. The other half will be taken care of this coming week....<br />
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We've been experimenting with ways to strengthen the firewall and cowl side panels. I built a several edges and fitted them above the firewall, waiting for the cowl assy. to arrive and see how it all fits.<br />
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Sanding the body panels has been a combination of chemical stripping, heat-gun and DA sanding. First I used Aircraft paint stripper to loosen the several coats of paint and primer, then the heat gun to lift it, and the DA sander to get the rest out. A lot of work was done this week on these areas.<br />
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On Sunday we decided to undercoat the fenders. I had a can of Rust Oleum and another of Permatex Undercoating, so I used a different one on each fender. First we washed the inside of the fender, then we sanded away all rust, scraped old undercoating and washed again and let dry under the hot sun. Then we sprayed black primer and then the undercoating. I think the Permatex laid a more uniform coat of rubber, but the Rust Oleum can lasted a little longer. </div>
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These are the original fenders and aside for some superficial rust, they are in great shape.</div>
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Right now I am looking for a someone to do the bodywork and paint the car at a reasonable price, or a painter that will paint the car after I do the bodywork. I can do the bodywork and I know It will come out right, but finding a skilled painter that will paint over someone's bodywork, is no easy task. But I'll keep looking...<br />
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<br /></div>Ivan Delgadohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09652686707619474185noreply@blogger.com0